City Focus · 6 min read

From the Coastal Cliffs of Busan's Haedong Yonggungsa to the Modern & Contemporary History Museum and Gamcheon Culture Village: The Essential Busan Course Across Sea and History

A journey that begins with the sound of waves at a temple atop Gijang's rock cliffs and continues to a port-opening-era vault turned art museum and the pastel roofs along the hillside roads

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
Cover photo: Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (Busangak) Photo: Korea Tourism Organization · KOGL Type 1

Comparison table at a glance

Key comparison: From the Coastal Cliffs of Busan's Haedong Yonggungsa to the Modern & Contemporary History Museum and Gamcheon Culture Village: The Essential Busan Course Across Sea and History
PlaceAreaAdmissionKey highlights
Haedong Yonggungsa TempleEast Busan (Gijang coast)FreeThe main hall meeting the sea atop rugged cliffs, and Sunrise Rock
Annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History MuseumOld downtown (Daecheong-ro, Jung-gu)FreeThe original 1929 modern architecture and a library lounge in a cultural complex
Baeksan Memorial Hall & Catholic CenterOld downtown (Donggwang-dong, Daecheong-dong)FreeThe story of independence funding at Baeksan Trading Company and sites of Busan's democracy and cultural movements
Busan Gamcheon Culture VillageWest Busan (Gamcheon, Saha-gu)FreeClusters of terraced pastel houses and the Little Prince photo zone

1. A Temple Built Not on a Mountain but on Blue Waves: Haedong Yonggungsa

Unlike most Korean temples, which sit deep in the mountains, Haedong Yonggungsa on the Dongam coast of Gijang-gun, Busan, is Korea's foremost seaside shrine to Gwaneum (Avalokiteshvara), built atop rugged coastal cliffs where rough East Sea waves crash beneath your feet. Pass the forest path lined with statues of the Twelve Zodiac Guardians and descend the 108 steps one by one, and the temple halls meeting the horizon come into view like a painting.

The moment you stand on the Sunrise Rock (Jijang Bosal) observatory and gaze at white waves pounding the rock cliffs along with the dancheong-painted roofs, the stale weight in your chest is washed away in an instant. Climb up to the Haesu Gwaneum Daebul overlooking the sea and take in the panorama of the Gijang coast.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple Busangak · Haedong Yonggungsa Temple
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple · Photo: Korea Tourism Organization · KOGL Type 1

Yeohaenggak editor's tip Haedong Yonggungsa is easy to reach by bus or taxi from Osiria Station on the Donghae Line metro, and tour groups pour in after 10 a.m., so it's best to visit early in the morning.

2. From a Site of Exploitation to a Citizens' Study: Annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum & Baeksan Memorial Hall

After soaking up the refreshing Gijang sea, it's time to move to Jung-gu's old downtown, Busan's roots, and feel the depth of time. The Annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum, below Yongdusan Park, is a historic building constructed in 1929 as the Busan branch of the Oriental Development Company and used as the American Cultural Center after liberation, now beautifully regenerated as a multipurpose cultural space for citizens (a larchiveum).

Sit in the reading room, where sunlight pours in between huge Western-style stone columns and arched windows, and open a book on Busan's history; then walk to Baeksan Memorial Hall (the site of independence activist Baeksan Ahn Hee-je's Baeksan Trading Company), the Busan Catholic Center and Yongdusan Park, and the hard-fought footsteps Busan has taken from the port-opening era to the present come vividly back to life.

Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum - Annex Busangak · Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum - Annex
Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum - Annex

Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum - Annex · Photo: Korea Tourism Organization · KOGL Type 1

Yeohaenggak editor's tip In the basement of the Main Building right next to the Annex (the former Bank of Korea Busan headquarters), you'll find the 'Vault Art Museum,' which preserves an actual cash vault room, so see it as well.

3. A Village Bathed in Sunset Light on the Hillside Roads: Busan Gamcheon Culture Village

After your old-downtown history walk, as the afternoon sun begins to sink, head to Busan Gamcheon Culture Village on the slopes of Cheonmasan Mountain in Saha-gu. A terraced hillside village that was a hard-won home for refugees during the Korean War has been reborn as a world-famous culture village through the hands of artists and residents.

The pastel roofs, built tier upon tier so that no house blocks the view of the one behind it, and the sea of Gamcheon Port beyond are beautiful even by day, but they're most moving at the magic hour, when the sunset fades and orange lights begin to glow in every house in the village.

Busan Gamcheon Culture Village Busangak · Busan Gamcheon Culture Village
Busan Gamcheon Culture Village

Busan Gamcheon Culture Village · Photo: Korea Tourism Organization · KOGL Type 1

Yeohaenggak editor's tip From in front of Exit 6 of Toseong Station on subway Line 1 (Pusan National University Hospital stop), take village bus Saha-gu 1-1, Seo-gu 2 or Seo-gu 2-2 to ride comfortably up to the top entrance of Gamcheon Culture Village.

Frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Q. What's the fastest way to travel in one day between Haedong Yonggungsa (East Busan) and the old downtown and Gamcheon Culture Village (West Busan)?

After Haedong Yonggungsa in the morning, take the Donghae Line from Osiria Station to Gyodae Station (transfer to Line 1), and you can reach Jungang, Nampo and Toseong stations with no traffic jams.

Q. What's the difference between the Main Building and the Annex of the Busan Modern & Contemporary History Museum?

The 'Main Building,' which uses the former Bank of Korea building, centers on the Vault Art Museum and permanent and special exhibition halls on Busan's modern history, while the 'Annex' across the street, the former Oriental Development Company building, is arranged around an archive library and a café and rest lounge.

Q. What etiquette should visitors follow out of respect for residents at Gamcheon Culture Village?

It's a living space where residents actually live, so follow the designated walking routes, keep your voice down in the alleys and refrain from photographing private property inside the gates.

Featured Places

Featured inthis column

The highlights this column introduces. Each opens its detailed page on the ○○gak site.

More Columns

Moretravel columns

Compare other cities and themes, too.

All columns